Jacquemus Fall 2023: A Poetic Celebration Of Femininity

Simon Porte Jacquemus reimagines delicate power through sheer fabrics, royal muses, and sunlit theatrics at Versailles.

When Jacquemus puts on a fashion show, it's never just a runway—it's a reverie. For Fall 2023, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus transported his audience to the storied grounds of Versailles, turning the palace's shimmering lake into the most ethereal front row: guests floated in canoes, serenaded by baroque court music as models emerged like daydreams from the 18th century.

The collection, titled "Le Chouchou"—a term of endearment that translates to "darling"—is a love letter to the feminine mystique. While rooted in the brand's signature undone minimalism, this season unveiled a softer, more whimsical side. Gone are the breezy linens and sun-soaked silhouettes of summers past; in their place, gossamer layers of lace, sheer tulle, and romantic organza dance on the skin, exuding both fragility and quiet strength.

From the very first look—a model in a white mesh square-neck tank and delicate briefs—it was clear this was a celebration of skin but also of storytelling. With every passing ensemble, Jacquemus wove in historical echoes: voluminous hip pads and puff sleeves conjure Marie Antoinette's decadent silhouettes, while slouchy culottes and off-the-shoulder mini dresses nod to Princess Diana's iconic ease. Each garment walked a fine line between softness and structure, past and present.

Courtesy of Jacquemus

 

Unapologetically sensual, the collection featured bikini tops, low-rise skirts, and sheer tights adorned with a single printed rose—an intimate gesture, like a note slipped under a pillow. Balletcore influences floated in through tutus and knee-high stockings, while ultra-mini purses and multi-buckled belts flirted with the Y2K obsession, adding a playful irreverence to the regal mood.

Jacquemus has always understood the woman who wants to be noticed not by how loud she is but by the poetry in her presence. With Le Chouchou, he delivers a wardrobe for her: romantic but not naive, revealing yet refined, nostalgic, and entirely modern.

Ultimately, this collection is not just about fashion—it's about fantasy. In Jacquemus' world, femininity is not a trend but a timeless crown.

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