Jacquemus at 15: The Art of Staying Singular

Courtesy of Jacquemus

Perched on the jagged cliff of Capri’s Casa Malaparte, 99 steps above the sea, Jacquemus reminded us: real fashion doesn’t need noise. It needs nerve.

For his 15th anniversary show, Simon Porte Jacquemus returned to the spark that started it all — Le Mépris, Godard’s cinematic masterpiece of detachment and desire. The 1963 film, starring Brigitte Bardot in her most existential stare, was shot on this very site. “I decided to create my brand after watching Le Mépris,” Simon shared. Fifteen years later, he brought the fantasy full circle — turning memory into runway, cinema into ceremony.

There were no arenas, no influencers in rows of 500. Just 1 house, 1 dream, 99 stone steps, 47 looks, 40 guests, 25 degrees.

Courtesy of Jacquemus

He ferried in a select few — Dua Lipa, Gwyneth Paltrow, Manu Rios — not as clickbait, but as companions in a carefully choreographed procession across the Capri waters. The arrival felt like a pilgrimage. The show, a confession.

It began with a whisper — a model clutching a towel-like robe to her chest, freshly emerged from an invisible sea. Then came the shift: sculpted grey suiting, a flash of teal headscarves, cobalt leather bags catching the sun like armor. These weren’t clothes that begged for applause. They stood silently, daring you to look closer.

Courtesy of Jacquemus

Jacquemus played with tension. Sheer dresses slit from shoulder to knee revealed skin with precision — not for seduction, but for statement. A sweater draped collarbone to collarbone framed the body like sculpture. Zebra-print Bermuda shorts, sailor-cut tanks — irreverent but fully owned. These looks weren’t for approval. They were for women who’ve stopped asking.

As always, structure was sacred. Gowns shaped like cones. Tops blooming into rigid florals. Balloon-sleeved suede nodding to last season’s silhouettes. Even the accessories square lunchbox clutches, orb-like totes, zebra loafers were chiseled declarations. Everything was considered. Nothing was incidental.

And then: Jennie of BLACKPINK, descending the stairs like a modern-day deity in a fan-shaped black dress, teal clutch in hand. Her final embrace with Simon felt less staged than shared two icons in mutual recognition.

Courtesy of Jacquemus

From above, the show looked like a constellation of Jacquemus’ greatest hits — “Jacquemus-isms” in full form. But this wasn’t nostalgia. This was control. Proof that you can whisper, seduce, and still leave the earth trembling.

Courtesy of Jacquemus

This wasn’t just a runway. It was a reclamation. Of minimalism as power. Of sensuality without apology. Of a designer who builds worlds — and guards them like myth.

For the women who live by their own design, who understand that silence can be louder than spectacle, Jacquemus’ FW24 wasn’t just fashion. It was scripture.

Previous
Previous

Is Frida Kahlo a Feminist Icon or a Flawed Tragedy? The Answer Is More Complex Than You Think

Next
Next

The First Kiss We Were Never Meant to See